Tips on How to Buy Vintage
What to Look For and What to Avoid When Buying Vintage Fashion
In recent years prices of vintage clothing has escalated due to increased demand, as much of it is sourced by fashion houses, designers and stylists, with competition pushing prices up. Whereas once upon a time £50 ($100) would get you a bagful of bargains, nowadays it is only likely to get you a dress!
For many women there is something magical about wearing a piece from yesteryear, which has a history and a touch of glamour. Simply by adding a vintage clutch to your outfit or a wearing a stylish '40s dress can make you feel like a million dollars.
Beware of Sizing Problems
Knowing where to go and learning what to look for is all part of .the fun! A particular minefield is sizing as modern women are larger and fuller-figured than earlier female counterparts. In the past sizing labels were not regulated, and were often much smaller than today's equivalents. Also past alterations may render sizing labels meaningless, so it is essential that you try on garments to see if they actually fit.
Watch forTrends
One of the key things is to make yourself aware of current trends in the vintage market, like this year's revival of vintage clutches. You should also shop frequently, as stocks can change overnight. The real truth about vintage is that most of the great pieces are sourced by the fashion industry well in advance of you getting to a shop, so you need to go to the same places as those in-the-know.
What to Look For
- The problem with vintage is that you have to be careful it doesn’t resemble a costume. You want something, that although old, has a modern feel to it, otherwise you look as if you are going to a fancy dress party. This is where shoes and accessories come into play, as they can modernize a look. Rachel Zoe, in her book, Style A to Zoe, advises, that unless you are a serious collector, look for a piece which you can actually wear, rather than archive.
- The key thing is to determine what is on-trend and making money right now, be it sharp tailoring, looks from the ‘40s or beaded purses. That way in addition to wearing it, you may well be able to sell it on later for a profit. Currently hot is tailored couture from Chanel, and their 30s costume jewelry. Also, according to the Daily Mail’s article "Antique Gold, The Insiders Guide to Vintage Chic on the Cheap,” '30s-style tea dresses are very much in vogue. Look for Dior pre 1958, and prewar 1960s jewelry, particularly Dior, Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent.
- Watch for increased demand in Yves Saint Laurent designs, particularly from his African and Russian collections. Due to his death on 1st June 2008, his designs will become even more collectable.
- Investing in classic pieces that will pass muster in the current market, like an Ossie Clark black dress, a classic Herrara white shirt or a '50s prom dress, will ensure that you get your money’s worth as these are never likely to go out of fashion. Antique jewelry is a safe bet and Melissa Sones, co-author of Full Frontal Fashion, suggests opting for a good quality coat and not to worry about the label.
- Choose an era where you know the cuts and tailoring suits your figure. There is sometimes a vast difference in cut and styling from a ‘30s to a ‘70s dress.
- Check each garments condition carefully. Look for stains under the arms, month holes, and stress around the stitching and zippers, which could give way at any time.
- If you have a few vintage stores that you frequent, get to know the store owners! They may well repay your loyalty by giving you a few tips or showing you pieces that you may have missed, or have just arrived.
What to Avoid
- Buying clothing off the shelf or rail without trying them on. Use sizing labels as a guide only, garments may have been altered. Try before you buy!
- If you are buying for profit then avoid buying large sizes (unless you intend wearing them). These are less valuable than smaller sized-garments that collectors and museums prefer.
- Avoid cheap, tacky fabrics and go for quality instead. Low-priced man-made fabrics will not last as long as natural fibers.
Where to Look
General
- Attending local garage sales, charity shops, second-hand stores and raiding the family closets, may turn up some gems. There are a number of online vintage clothing stores and some of the specialist retail outlets also have their own websites where you can view and buy their stock online.
- Another current trend is swishing. The green alternative to shopping, where women get together and swap items from their wardrobe, rather than shop. If you are fortunate, this may also lead to some lucky finds in the vintage department.
London
- If you are able to travel to London then there is a huge selection of specialist vintage clothing and accessories shops and regular vintage fashion fairs, which attract people in the fashion industry from all over the world.
- Rellik in Ladbroke Grove, Notting Hill, London is one of the few vintage stores known for catering to vintage trends. Rellik is also a favorite of Kate Moss and Kylie Minogue and has its own website.The owners are careful what they stock, sifting out the rubbish first.
- Also, Absolute Vintage in London’s Spitalfields is considered to be "the best vintage shop in London," according to InStyle magazine. This is the place to go if you have a passion for shoes.
- A place to rub shoulders with the international elite of the fashion world is the London Vintage Fashion, Textiles and Accessories Fair, held at the Hammersmith Town Hall every 5 to 6 weeks.
- Check out some of the great London markets like Portobello Road, Camden Town and Old Spitalfields Fashion Market. The area around Covent Garden is also worth a look, so is Greenwich market.
