Black In Fashion
A Short History Of Conspicious Consumption And Sumptuary Laws
In the Wallace Collection's16th Century Gallery, just off London's Oxford Street, hangs a Frans Pourbus portrait of an unnamed gentleman dressed all in black. In contrast to the adjourning portrait of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester in the same room, who stands resplendent in gold embroidery and feathers, it's a quiet and unassuming work. What contribution could it possibly make to fashion today?
An Important Time For The Arts And Literature
The Renaissance—which spanned four centuries, contrary to perceived opinion that it was a 16th century phenomenon—was an important time for the arts, literature, science, religion, politics and philosophy. Following the release of Dante's monumental Divine Comedy around 1310—which transformed allegorical literature—the first Western European moveable-type printing press was invented in the 1430s, helping usher in an era of literacy, knowledge and imagination.
International trade also enhanced the imported goods industry at great expense, leading to excessive conspicuous consumption. European governments—partly influenced by the Reformed Church—began imposing sumptuary laws by the 14th century, attempting to restrict extravagances in fashion, food and luxury goods in order to practise restraint (modesty being perceived as a virtue), boost the local and national economy, and avoid commoners 'dressing above their station'.
Sumptuary Laws And Their Legacy
These sumptuary laws proved largely ineffective, being far too meticulous in dictating how people should dress according to rank and status. Fashions changed frequently, ensuring that a policeman on the street had great difficulty concluding on first impressions if a wealthy merchant wearing fur should be arrested for his offence.
However, the sumptuary laws did succeed in developing a positive legacy that has lasted to this day. During their tenure a kind of colour-coding system, also instrumented by the Church, was established to distinguish the nobility from the under-class, with red, green and yellow singled out as the most vulgar hues.
The Rise Of Black As A Badge Of Authority
Black, which was mainly worn by the clergy, soon gained widespread respect as a colour of piety, leading self-made tradesmen to also dress in black. Black then became synonymous with authority, commanding the beholder to take the wearer and his profession seriously.
And so it continues today in the almost uniform black that fashion editors and buyers wear as they attend London Fashion Week each season. Passer-bys who observe them from outside the LFW tent near the Natural History Museum are almost certainly bound to also glimpse a severity in their faces, as if they have more important things on their minds, like a deadline.
Looking again at the Frans Pourbus portrait, who the man is remains unknown. What is known is that the artist belonged to the Reformed Church and that the portrait was possibly a commission. Who's to say that the choice of black is not deliberate?
Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, 1560-65
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Editors in black at a catwalk show, 2007
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