Structured Shoulder Trend for Fall 2009

Bold Shoulders — the Strongest Silhouette of Autumn Winter 2009

Aug 10, 2009

Exaggerated shoulders are this fall's main fashion focus when it comes to sculpted silhouettes. Peaked, rounded, caped, puffed and spiked, the ultimate in power dressing.

Serious shoulders represent Fall 2009's key silhouette, with razor-sharp peaks or rounded Mickey Mouse-like ears adorning jackets, coats, tops and dresses.

Little did Christopher Decarnin for Balmain know that two seasons ago, his drummer-boy Michael Jackson jacket with its tennis ball shoulders would be one of the most imitated pieces of the fashion world. Since then Balmain has been key in influencing this sculpt shoulder trend, so much so that Elle magazine (UK edition - August 2009) has dubbed it "Balmainia".

Sharp Shoulder Trend for Fall 2009

Enter the sharp shoulder for Fall 2009, this season it’s bigger and bolder than every before, taking on gigantic proportions in width, height and shape. With extended shoulder measurements of as much as 16 to 20 cm (Roskanda Ilincic and Dolce and Gabbana) these oversized structured styles are “excellent for crowd surfing and creating your own spatial void on escalators and in lifts,” says Vogue magazine (August 2009) in its fashion feature entitled "Peak Season."

Bold shoulders are a 1980s cliché in power dressing yet somehow they still work. There is a certain nostalgia in a sculpted-shouldered jacket, reminiscent of iconic couture pieces from the past. Dolce and Gabbana (inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli ) have taken the shoulder and given it an elegant pre-war 1940s rounded silhouette. Vivienne Westwood has added soft sweet curves to shoulders with her Red Label jackets.

Balmain, initial instigator of the look, have embraced the tricky-shoulder trend full on with this season's collection awash with sharp shoulders titling up at 45 degree angles. Balenciaga has adapted the silhouette into soft puffy styles. Other high-end designers such as Roskanda Ilincic, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana offer their own interpretations.

Shoulder Embellishments

As if prominent shapes are not enough, there are also shoulder embellishments. Designer Julien MacDonald has taken the shoulder and added shards of glass as sharp spikes. Dubbed the Stingray jacket this is one mean coat. Rodarte has added shoulder tassles to dresses in the form of exaggerated military epillettes.

How to Wear a Sharp Shouldered Statement Jacket

Balmain’s original much-copied look of acidwash jeans, spiky stilettos and sharp shouldered jacket still remains an iconic silhouette. For rock ‘n roll chic then pair skintight leggings, oversized t-shirt and some studded heels with outlandish shoulders. For a little more elegance then wear a peak-shouldered jacket with tux trousers and a silk tee.

Invest wisely in a rounded or peak-shouldered jacket and you a buying a slice of fashion history. A statement jacket is a key investment buy, according to Lucy Yeomans, editor of Harpers Bazaar (August 2009). Inspired by designer runways, the most versatile high street styles, in terms of cost per wear, are statement jackets with shoulders that are exaggerated enough to be right on trend, but not so over-the-top that they won't be able to transcend seasons.

The copyright of the article Structured Shoulder Trend for Fall 2009 in Women’s Fashion is owned by Gill Hart. Permission to republish Structured Shoulder Trend for Fall 2009 in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.